July 2003: Rebuilding the Pedal Box


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I will go on record and say that originally, Stella had most likely the worst pedal box in the history of TII ownership. It was so rusty the pedals would not work properly. I knew that at some point in the rebuild process I would make this as though it were brand new. It's not hard, it just takes like everything else on this project persistence, cash and a will to nip rust in the butt whenever you get the opportunity.  Many thanks here to Sherman Martinez, who about 2 years ago showed me a rebuilt, powder coated pedal box. It knew then I was ready to hand him the money to get me one done. It's sat in a box till now, and believe me I was ready to do this.
For clarity here are the innards. Most parts can be had new. Bimmer Parts sells a kit with all the things you need. Check their website for pricing, or call them. They're chip considering. The bolts and the plated part on the right are not part of the kit. At some point, I will create a parts listing of this stuff, I did when I was ordering, I just didn't order them all together at once!
This is the TII gas pedal. It has a return spring which sits outside the box and gets rusty. Put something on it like HHS-2000 from Wurth for both lubricant and rust preventative. The plastic tip on the rod shown below is the bearing that the gas pedal resides in as you press/depress the gas pedal.
Note there is an inner sleeve for both pedals of white, then the metal portion fits through the long bolt, along with springs or pins depending on brakes or clutch. I used Wurth HHS 2000 lubricant on all these bearing surfaces as it's waterproof and very slick, and it sprays on.
Installing the brake booster rod: This rod and many of the parts are NLA on it, so recycle. The boots are as of this writing still around new.  This rod attaches to the brake pedal on the back side of the alignment bolt.
Here's another view, as you would see from the driver's side of the firewall in the cabin.
Slide the bolt through as shown. Note there is a washer that goes between the clutch and brake pedals. The order in which I'm putting these in is critical in the reassembly, so note these steps!
Now add on the clutch pedal, and it's spring. Note that the clasp at the back goes towards the back of the pedal box. The bolt on the clutch pedal here connects to the clutch slave cylinder which I will cover next time we put all the guts together this connects to.
Another view for clarity. This should be ready to snug, but not tighten up, the main bolt. That comes later.
Here is the bushing on the outside of the box. Install it.
 
Now slide the gas pedal rod in. Ad the spring around the rod as shown. Keep the pedal rod pushed all the way so that the rod protrudes as shown. You will need that to add the linkage rod adapter next.
The linkage rod adapter is held at attention by a spring. I've substituted for corrosion reasons here a stainless steel nut with Nyloc insert and bolt.
Now position the rod and the adapter bracket as shown. Snug up, but don't completely tighten. That will be done later after we affix the pedal box to the floor of the car.
Another view of the assembly.
Side view of the box.
As you push forward on the pedal, there should be firm pressure from the spring. It should snap right back into place. If not, ensure the spring is connected properly to the rod on the outside of the pedal box.
Straight on view showing full throttle position.
Top down view of the assembly.
Ok, here's the overall box with the pedal pads attached.
There is more to add and connect, just not at this time. Set the assembly aside and we will pull it out again when we're ready for the brake booster.  More next month!!

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