| 4)
disassemble the lower components |
| 5)
lubricate all mechanisms thoroughly |
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|
6) undercoat the inside of the lower section of the door,
since this is where water will end up. |
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 |
| 7)
carefully reassemble the components in the right locations |
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|
SOME DETAILED NOTES HERE: The plated part with 2
bolts tells the window not to roll up any farther. If you take it off, note
where the washers were locked down by marking them with a pen
so it will line up again exactly. If you don't, you'll spend a lot of time
finding the right point. In my case I had no choice but to adjust
forever. I'm planning to wait until I have it in the car before I lock it
down for good. By the way, the silver rod attached to the door lock button
is for the electronic door lock mechanism. I've also cleaned up the
glide tracks for the windows by removing corrosion and painting with silver
Rust-O-Leum paint. Those white nylon bushings are still available new, and
make the window glide to perfection. |
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|
Anywhere you suspect moisture, try replacing the bolts,
nuts and washers with stainless steel versions to dispel corrosion. |
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|
8) set aside final tightening and adjustments until after
installation in the car. This will allow you to make sure everything is
working to plan before putting on the door panels. |
| |
|
Part 1 | This is Part 2 |
Part 3 |
| |
