|
Last updated:
January 30, 2007
Where the "M" stands for MOTOR, it should be the
easiest part of the restoration. It almost is. It's very enjoyable to take one apart and
rebuild it - watching the craftsmanship, tolerances and overall
engineering that went into this engine. This work is very gratifying to
do on this project in my opinion.
MAN IS IT HOT... The month of July is warm here in the middle of the
country. This is the inside temperature of my garage area. You can sweat
5 lbs a day off when it's this hot - especially with the humidity here. |
 |
| From
the crankshaft end, the rear main seal is installed and the cover
installed around it. |
 |
| Ok,
moving around to the side, I have installed the Oil Filter stand, the
water tube and the TII linkage bracket with arms. The Alternator has
been installed. |
 |
| A
3/4 view showing the special bracket that holds the oil filter stand to
the warm up regulator of the FI pump. |
 |
| On
the front, this view shows the lower timing cover and the engine hoist
hook between the water pump and the lower timing cover. |
 |
|
Installing the triangle shaped plate on the rear of the oil filter stand
which joins with the warm up regulator. |
 |
| The
starter holds a special bracket which firmly mounts to the engine block
and the side of the throttle body. |
 |
|
These two nuts hold the bracket in place. The parts manual does not show
this mounting very clearly. |
 |
| The
brake vacuum line. It mounts to the intake manifold between the two
runners closest to the firewall. The other end attaches to the lower
portion of the brake booster. This cloth lined hose comes from Walloth &
Nesch and matches the original part. The fabric also contains a wire
wrap for strength. To cut it, wrap the ends with masking tape and use a
hack saw or fine tooth sawzall blade to cut it. This tape method gives a
nice clean edge. Them I used one wrap of electrical cloth tape and a
small hose clamp to hold it in place. |
 |
| This
housing on the rear of the cylinder head holds the distributor. I
temporarily have this bolt in the oil pressure sender hole to keep dirt
out till the part arrives. |
 |
| This
view shows where the sender mounts to the block. |
 |
| This
view shows the top of the kpump with the lines removed. It's about time
to add the lines though! |
 |
| A
view showing the intake stub manifold with the two metal brackets which
secure the intake log manifold. I have 4 new injectors on the engine
which should renew the performance to original "zip" for sure. |
 |
| This
shows the location where the hose mounts on the warm up regulator and
pokes it's way up through the intake stub manifold. |
 |
| Then
we add the plastic high pressure fuel delivery lines to the setup. |
 |
|
These white plastic block parts on the fuel lines are "keepers" which keep the lines
together. |
 |
| A
side view of the injectors and the lines. |
 |
| This
enlarged view shows the entire fuel injector lines connected from nozzle
to pump. |
 |
| This
is another view showing the intake manifold "elbows" installed. |
 |
| To
install the log manifold, you have to remove the valve cover to secure
the back of the manifold to the intake brackets (inverted V and I shaped
metal pieces). |
 |
| Pump
view. |
 |
| End
elbows installed. |
 |
| View
of the breather hose which tucks under the log portion of the intake
manifold. |
 |
| The
small hose then connects to the side of the throttle body. The long end
will eventually connect up to the TII air box. |
 |
| Side
view of the intakes. |
 |
| Top
view of the intake side of the engine. |
 |
| I
don't have the linkage hooked up yet, but it's coming. This shows all
the elbows installed temporarily. |
 |
| Time
to put the engine to bed for a while till I get the last few missing
parts. |
 |
| The
radiator fan fits - checked it out -- too early to call it done to that
point! |
 |
| AUGUST... |
| This
is the correct TII throttle return spring. If yours does not look like
this, you need the real thing. I can't tell you how many TII's I have
seen with the wrong one - and to press the gas pedal is a night mare and
cramped leg after a short drive! Take your needle nose
pliers and curl the ends a bit so it stays hooked up. |
 |
| One
end hooks under the first intake runner closest to the radiator. It's
easy with the runner off. |
 |
| The
other end connects to the throttle body linkage. It has a special end to
hold the spring in place. |
 |
| Here
is an overview that shows both connections. |
 |
|
Installed the oil pressure sender and the three missing bolts that hold
the distributor onto the cylinder head. |
 |
| On
the rear side of the Kugelfisher pump is a small cup. It is designed to
hold a small plastic washer. If your car's linkage is squeaky or sloppy,
chances are yours is missing. |
 |
| Here
is an overview of it showing the linkage. |
 |
| The
end of the throttle butterfly control shaft fits into the small bushing. |
 |
| Once
installed, it holds nicely with the ball and socket arrangement. This
view shows both of the small throttle control rods installed. |
 |
| A
view showing where the clamp that fits around the throttle butterfly
will connect up. |
 |
| This
is the "old school" cloth covered fuel line like came on the car
originally. I have one of the GEMI hose clamps fitted - these are the
ones specifically for fuel injection lines. |
 |
| And
the other end connects to the cold start valve on the throttle body. Per
factory photos I've seen the fuel line runs between the first two
runners and around the "tuna can". |
 |
| |
| This section is
completed! |
