|
After many months, we finally put the wheels on and put the
car on the ground. This was great... it seems like a real car now. |
 |
|
We moved it around and made some changes in the way things
are organized. |
 |
|
The sway bar links are not yet hooked up. |
 |
|
We mounted the door to see how that was going to work. It
wasn't easy, and we did nick the paint in a couple of spots. |
 |
|
The Scheel seats came in. I started making measurements to
see if they fit the same mounts as the Recaros. They are off by a bit, so
the holes in the Recaro brackets that fit the bottom of the Scheel seats
must be reamed out by 1/8th inch or so to fit. |
 |
|
The side to side measurement is 17.5" on the stock seat
rails. |
 |
|
A view of the bottom of the Scheel. |
 |
|
For comparison is the bottom of a Recaro seat. The webbing
approach is different. This is why they sag as they get older. |
 |
|
This shows the Recaro tracks mounted to the Scheel seat.
|
 |
|
Again, the finished part. |
 |
|
Once in the car I needed new hardware to hold the seats to
the track. |
 |
|
Side view of the install. These headrests are later models,
bigger than the early Scheels. |
 |
|
Those are allen head screws with Acorn nuts above to hold it
all in. |
 |
|
The brake lines were installed new from rear axle to front
firewall. |
 |
|
This fitting is new and bolts under the rear seat to a fixed
nut. It's probably covered with sound proof goo on yours. |
 |
|
As I was under the car I took this shot of the bottom of the
pedal box. I have yet to put a special cover over it. |
 |
|
Another view of the back of the front subframe showing a
tie-rod end for the left front wheel. |
 |
|
The brake line was attached to the support of the pedal box.
The plastic keepers are NLA, make sure and keep yours if they are good. |
 |
|
A view of the back of the booster. It's important to note the
4 nuts holding the booster onto the support bracket are very difficult to
install and get tight. The brake light switch needs to go in last because it
requires some adjustment to work. It is off when closed, on when open or the
button is fully forward. |
 |
|
The block came from the machine shop tanked and honed, but
must be decked. I forgot to get it done so it's going back. |
 |
|
This is a view of the rod and piston with the original rings.
These are in great shape and will be reused. |
 |
|
The flywheel was turned for the new clutch and pressure plate
below it. |
 |
|
Another view of the OEM piston. These are the factory KS (Kolben/Schmidt)
TII pistons. |
 |
|
How the cylinder walls look after honing. For best results
find someone with a Sunnen honing system, it must be plateau honed for the
rings BMW uses. |
 |
|
The journals on the crank were micro polished and new freeze
plugs installed. |
 |
|
Close up view of casting marks on the side of the block. 74
is the year of production. |
 |
|
A view of the journals once they are polished. |
 |
|
The crank has 3 sprockets. The once closest to the journal is
for the oil pump, the other for the double row cam chain. |
 |
|
Close up view of Freeze plug. |
 |
|
On the back of the block you can see the VIN# which matches
your VIN# of the body. The 2.0 indicates bore size. |
 |
|
Starter side view of the block. All of this rust was then
cleaned off with wire wheel for preparation. |
 |
|
I'm using POR-15's special hi temp engine enamel. It is as
thick as they say it is. |
 |
|
Still drying... I applied with a foam brush. |
 |
| |
| Next
month engine assembly begins! |
