This how-to article has been updated to bear the following information...

As of 1/2005, Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa, CA is stocking the correct, rebuilt TII fuel pumps.
The cost is in line with the cost of the 5 pump, so you should do the right thing and use the TII pump.

For your convenience, here's the link to that page.

      Mesa Performance Web Site - TII Fuel Pump
        Mesa Performance Parts
2490 Newport Blvd.
        Costa Mesa, CA 92627
        1-800-221-MESA (order line)

Consider the following article below an option in lieu of another shortage of rebuilt pumps.

  •  When possible, I always recommend that as owners we use the right OEM BMW stuff for our cars.
    The conversion works, but requires modification to the hoses and wiring harness. I have heard
    from many owners who performed this conversion with success and no side effects over many
    miles during the 3 years since I posted it.  You can always keep this around if you are in an
    emergency somewhere and can't source the right parts!

How-To: Converting TII Fuel Pump to 5 Series Pump

For really the whole month of July I dealt with the tii fuel pump woes. My old pump was 27 years old and was weak. When I got under there and took it out of the car, it was a miracle it still worked. After about 20 minutes it would go weak and lean out. The car barely ran above 2000 rpm when this happened. Heat made it worse. I thought I had it fixed. Crap! I had to PULL it back into the driveway with the SUV.

After the $375 sticker shock of a new pump, I got a used pump and canister because the canister was shot too. If you can find a used pump that has been stored with fuel in the pump, it's probably fine. However if it's dry - chances are the thing is locked up tight as a drum and can't be easily repaired without a complete overhaul.

Rumor had it for some time that a newer 5 series pump was transferable to the tii and was a lot less money - like $150 new - and was readily available. That rumor is true. Here's how I finally beat the fuel pump blahs, upgraded my car to newer technology and saved some money in the process.  Here's a close up look at the pump, which is BMW part number 
16-14-1-179-232. I have also seen it referred to in parts books such as Rocky Mountain Motorworks as GFP263. Anyway it is really quiet and powerful once installed. I can barely hear it fire up now from inside the car when first starting the TII up.

 High level overview:  What's needed...

NOTE: You need to order this pump first in order to begin. Make sure and take the pump with you to the hardware store because you'll need two 6mm and two 5mm nuts to anchor the positive and negative ground straps to the fuel pump. Get stainless steel nuts. You will also need some wire clip-on adapters to splice new wires on, and also some "O" type wire ends to fasten to the positive and negative posts.

BEGIN: Here's the details on what it takes to complete the process.
Let us assume you have the car jacked up, wheels chocked and the right rear wheel removed.
The new pump is lighter but requires new wiring harness changes to make it work in the 2002tii. The big end of the pump is the source line to the fuel tank and the front of the pump feeds the smaller line to the front of the car's engine compartment to the fuel filter that is inline just ahead of the Kugelfisher pump itself. "Mummify" this cannister. They are 70$ new from BMW Mobile Tradition, and they take 10 days to get here to the US.
As you can see from old CRUSTY here, my 27 year old pump, that the side fuel delivery from the original TII fuel pump delivered fuel to the canister. The new hose needs to be made up to go from the front to the side (shown in later photos below).

The green cap covers the incoming fuel line connector from the gas tank. Keep the green cap on until installed to prevent dirt from entering the pump.

1) Your fuel pump is mounted just ahead of the fuel tank above the right rear trailing arm. That rusty mounting bracket  holds the pump on with three 10mm nuts.Remove it carefully and plug both ends of the fuel supply lines.
2) This little fella here provides DC voltage to your pump. I chose to modify rather than hack this cable for the new pump. The green/white wire is positive and the brown/white wire is negative.
3) Using crimp on wire splicers, I added a red wire to positive and a black wire to negative. Add the "O" type post ends to the wires so they can be locked down to their respective posts for pos and neg on the fuel pump.
4) You're going to need new hoses. Take the pump to the auto parts store and get new hose clamps. Buy a new piece of hose to go from the front of the pump to the canister. On this setup, gas flows from the pump front to the canister.
5) The new pump is smaller in diameter than the old. I made a shim from splitting an old garden hose and wrapping it around the back of the pump and then putting the canister mounting bracket over it. It should be snug but not torqued down, you don't want to put the pump into a bind.

6) While you're here take 30 minutes in the trunk to clean out the screens of the fuel skimmer in the tank. In the long run, you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches down the road.

7) Here it is already with the new DC power lines attached. By the way, I use latex gloves all the time when working on the car. They save your hands from all kinds of contaminants and cuts from handling sharp parts.
8) Now it's time to mount it up. Remember that the hose from the gas tank now goes into the REAR of the pump rather than the front. The front now supplies the Kugelfisher with gas. Seal up the DC voltage  wires on the pump from weather with heat shrink tubing.
 It's now time to test the setup.
9) Disconnect the fuel line coming from the can type fuel filter up in front of the Kugelfisher. Insert the rubber hose end into a dry, clean 1 qt water bottle.

10) Turn on the car key to the point where you hear the pump come on (2nd position on the ignition). The pump will now siphon gas from the tank and push it to the front  of the car. Turn off the key after all air has escaped the fuel line and the gas is flowing strong into the 1 qt. bottle. Hook the hoses back up, pour the gas back into the gas tank and try starting the car. You should start momentarily and might need a pump or two from the gas pedal to get the beast to come alive.

11) Inspect for leaking fuel. Immediately stop the engine if you do have a leak. It's easy to put the whole car up in flames if it leaks onto the exhaust.

12) No leaks??? It's time for a road test. Presuming that everything checks out... you're done.




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